Wednesday, January 9, 2013

Wednesday 8 January - Flying!!!!

Last breakfast in New Orleans and then loaded the car (thankfully the heavy rain and thunder of the night had stopped) and had a quick trip to Louis Armstrong International Airport. Dropped Jessica and all the luggage at the kerb in front of Delta and then Alison and Philip took the car back to the National depot. All good with the hand back including the badly stone chipped windscreen and we were quickly on to a shuttle bus back to the airport terminal. Checked in with help and got our boarding passes for all three flights. 1 hour flight to Atlanta on a MD88 and then approximately a 4 hour flight to Los Angeles on a packed Boeing 757, now waiting for the boarding call for the last and longest section of the homeward journey. What has been good is that we have not had to clear security again since leaving New Orleans and our luggage hopefully will be in Brisbane to meet us.

Sitting in a two seat row at the second last row of the plane - hope the tail of the plane on this flight doesn't jump around from turbulence as the flight from Atlanta.

Jessica left New Orleans before us and is safely in NYC and has been to a stage show and completed a few other things as well.

Signing out now from the USA blog - thank you for those who have followed our trip. We hope that you have maybe inspired to visit some new places or at least have got a laugh out of some of our antics.

Tuesday, January 8, 2013

Tuesday 8 January - New Orleans

Our last full day in New Orleans and we planned to just wander some more and browse the shops in the Vieux Carre or French Quarter. Weather forecast was for a good chance of rain and storms but we headed off and managed to wander until mid-afternoon without getting wet.

Started our wandering with a visit to the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Shrine of St Jude) that we had bypassed near the St Louis 1 Cemetery yesterday and then headed back down into Royal and Chartres Streets to browse the jewellery and antique stores. Alison picked up a lovely onyx and diamond pendant supposedly reduced to half price. Jessica "ummed" and "ahhed" about some pendants but even after returning to stores ended up not purchasing. Passed a house where William Faulkner was living when he wrote his first novel in 1925.





















We visited the Cathedral of St Louis and listened to part of an organ recital as we took in the beautiful painted ceilings of the nave and sanctuary. Then it was on to the Museum of Louisiana in the old Presbytery building next to the Cathedral. There were basically two displays in the museum - the story of Hurricane Katrina and its impact including the Steinway Grand Piano of Fats Domino displayed as it had been found after the storm and a display on the history of Mardi Gras and the parades and costumes.
Post Katrina polytarp costumes for Mardi Gras
Mardi Gras parade costume
Mardi Gras masks
Light lunch of beignets and coffee at Cafe du Monde while we were entertained by a trombonist on the footpath - Christopher would have been impressed. After this it was time for more browsing and Philip headed into an art shop where we eventually purchased a framed print by a young local artist, Terrance Osborne. Couldn't resist the colours of the art and also it will be a beautiful reminder of a visit to a magical city.


Alison headed home alone while Philip and Alison kept browsing but the rain started to appear more insistent so they headed home as well. On the way we passed an old house from which had been the home of an early mayor and is now called Napoleon House as it is reported that Napoleon was offered the chance to come to New Orleans as a place of refuge by the mayor.


Refuelled the car for its hand back tomorrow at the local gas station and purchased southern style fried chicken to eat back in our room. Jessica had noted some good reviews of the chicken on Trip Advisor from others who had stayed at our B & B. Whilst we were waiting for the chicken, Philip was approached by a young african american man who recommended the chicken and then asked where we were from. On mentioning Australia, he then said how he had played his trumpet on a stage over the water in Sydney with a famous New Orleans drummer. He and Philip then exchanged a "fist pound" to end the conversation.

Tonight we have watched an excellent documentary DVD from PBS on the history of New Orleans. It was great to watch it at the end of our visit as it meant that we were much better able to understand the various stories of this city. Now listening to intermittent heavy rain showers after having seen flash flood warnings for areas to the west of the city. There is also heavy fog and we pray that things will be clear for us to load our luggage into the car in the morning and head to the airport.

Monday, January 7, 2013

Monday 7 January - New Orleans

Today dawned bright and sunny in New Orleans so the trio was keen to get breakfast under their belt and head of to do a tour of St Louis Number 1 Cemetery at 10am. Cindy excelled with our breakfast spread - fresh fruit cocktail, pot of hot coffee, a freshly made quiche of ham and collard greens, fruit juice and sugared scrolls and jam. Certainly just the thing to set one up for a big day walking the city.

A short walk to the old Basin Street railway station where we were to meet our guide from the Save our Cemeteries group. Eventually he organised the taking of money and gathering of the walking tour group and we headed to the cemetery next door. It was interesting to learn of the history of this and other cemeteries in the city and also to hear of the burial practices. Across Basin street is the original mortuary chapel now Our Lady of Guadalupe and also a shrine to St Jude, patron saint of lost causes. Our experiences later in the day with trying to ride the trolley and bus system convinced us all that we had been negligent in not visiting St Jude's shrine first! saw many old graves in the St Louis cemetery including the ones around the edge backing on to the wall which were four body "spots" high but with age the bottom crypts are at least half below ground.
Note the bottom level disappearing below ground as the tombs sink
Even saw a new tomb waiting for Nicholas Cage, apparently his financial troubles have required him to sell his two new Orleans homes but he has a spot ready for his final retirement.
Nicholas Cage is prepared!
Also saw the tomb of Marie Laveau, reputed to be the Queen of New Orleans voodoo.
Voodoo queen Marie Laveau's tomb
After a quick escape at the end of the tour, our guide though comprehensive in his narration, was at times easily distracted and a little wordy and so the tour had lasted more than the stated hour! We bought our day pass for the trolley bus system for $3 per person and then realised that two of the trolleys which we wished to ride were in fact suspended for track work. So instead of riding the St Charles Trolley to the Gardens District it was on to a replacement bus. A helpful fellow sitting near us suggested a good street at which we should de-bus and pointed us in the direction of some worthwhile streets to walk and marvel at the houses.



Well in fact we started with another cemetery, this time the La Fayette cemetery which contained tombs for a lot of Germans. Also in both the cemeteries which we visited there were tombs set up by benevolent societies for the burial of those who would be buried in pauper's graves in Australian cemeteries.


We then walked through a number of tree lined streets marvelling at the beautiful homes


This one is for sale!

This one is described as a "cottage"


and enjoying the wafting aroma from the many osmanthus bushes/trees planted in the neighbourhood. Alison and Philip are once again inclined to try introducing  and nurturing some more osmanthus specimens in their garden. They had first been introduced to the fragrance of this bush in China and have had trouble getting their bush to thrive at home.

The intrepid trio caught a bus back to Canal Street and then headed off on foot back into the French Quarter where we all feel at home. Managed to find, with help from the tourist information office, the shop of Johnny's Poboys which we had located on our first day in the city. Bought our poboy lunch and then headed up onto the levee to find a seat and enjoy. Philip was the only one who finished his and that was partly from necessity as he had ordered a roast beef version and not only was it dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayonnaise but also the roast beef was steeped in gravy!

There was no way that half of it would survive the journey back to Monrose Row to be supper!

After lunching we headed down to catch the Riverside trolley service for a trip along the river - though you actually can't see the river because of the levees! Road first to French Market which is at the end of the line closest to our accommodation but stayed on to ride back into town. While wiating for the return journey to start an old gentleman border the trolley but caught his leg on the steel step and ended up bleeding quite badly. The lady accompanying him took him off the trolley but there was no talk of liability and in fact the trolley driver's major concern was how he could clean up the blood from the man's injury. He asked if we had tissues or napkins which of course we did in abundance and then Alison offered him a Kleenex wet wipe to use and he was so thankful he offered to pay her for the remainder of the packet. We started on the return journey and to the dismay of other passengers waiting to board at the various stops we went express! Left the trolley at Canal Street with a plan to catch the Canal Street Trolley to Rampart Street and then a bus back to our street of Governor Nicholl's Street. Well no trolleys operating on the Canal Street line so onto a replacement bus which picked up more and more passengers as we headed up Canal Street. By the time we needed to exit it was a real effort to get past people and out the bus door. Then into Rampart Street but no buses passed and so it was a walk all the way with a rest room stop at the Best Western for Philip who by this stage was desperate. It should be mentioned that one of the most common signs in New Orleans is - rest rooms for patrons only, one drink purchase minimum!

We are safely at home and settled in for the night.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Sunday 6 January - New Orleans

Woke to rain this morning, not heavy but enough to make a change in plans necessary. Had planned to do an escorted tour of the St Louis Cemetery at 10.00am but instead put Plan B into action and after a very tasty breakfast prepared by our host Cindy headed in the car to the east of New Orleans and across the Mississippi to visit two restored plantations.  We had rain most of the way but it lifted when we reached the road beside the Mississippi where we were to visit the plantations. Both had been sugar cane plantations and were still producing cane today. The first plantation, Laura, was a creole (French) plantation and the actual homestead which was built in the early 1800s reminded us of an old Queenslander except for the use of timber and brick in the construction.

The front view of the Laura Plantation home
The view walking along under the side verandah
The pantry with the brick and timber construction exposed where the plaster was damaged in a fire in the 1990s. Construction method is French in origin but the house was built by an African slave from Senegal.
It was interesting to hear the history of the family that had built and operated the plantation with the women of the family exercising management responsibilities as President of the plantation. One of these women, Elizabeth, was a real tyrant and had been extremely cruel not only to the slaves but also to her own family members. There are surviving slave cottages on the property as well and these were lived in by descendants of the plantation slaves up to the 1970s.
Original slave quarters at Laura Plantation
Philip in one of the rooms of a slave cottage
The home was really like a large office for the running of the plantation and so the family only lived in it for part of the year, retiring to their townhouses in the French Quarter of New Orleans for the Mardi Gras season after harvest.

After the visit to Laura it was then on to Oak Alley Plantation a few miles down the river road. This home was built in the mid-1800s and was in the style of a grand house with large columns and formal rooms and gardens.
The view of the Oak Alley home from the front.
Master bedroom at Oak Alley Plantation
The entry of the house is framed by an avenue of Live Oak trees that were planted sometime in the 1700s and lead down to the levee bank of the Mississippi River.
The avenue of Live Oak trees leading down to the Mississippi. The plant growing on the tree branches is called Resurrection Fern.
While we stood on the first floor verandah looking out towards the river, a big ship went down sounding its horn and the funnel and bridge of the ship were clearly visible over the levee. The three of us, while impressed with the beauty of this home, all felt the story and authenticity of the Laura Plantation more inspiring.

Back on the road to New Orleans and Jessica went into sleep mode while Philip drove and Alison spent the journey looking for alligators lurking in the swamps on either side of the elevated road. No alligators co-operated in this venture.

No alligators here - at least not showing themselves!
On our return to NO we parked the car at Monrose Row and headed off on foot back into the French Quarter and down on to the levee bank to take in the sight of the Mississippi as it flows through the city. Alison and Philip were really pleased to see the river here as they had actually crossed it many days ago in its early stages in the north of the country.

Jessica and Alison on the levee bank taking in the view of the Mississippi
Looking upstream to city centre and cruise terminal
Saw the riverside trolley car which we plan to ride with the other lines tomorrow - $3 for a day of rides.

Lunch in a quirky cafe where Philip and Alison shared a muffaletta sandwich and Jessica opted for spaghetti and meatballs! Too much to eat so we got take out boxes and have enjoyed a second go for dinner tonight. We walked home via the entrance to Louis Armstrong Park which we had planned to traverse but a local suggested that as it was getting dark it might be more advisable not to head through the park to the streets on the other side.


Jessica is planning to finish the evening with some more beignets which she purchased at Cafe du Monde. She has been warned that she will need to eat them in the shower so that the icing sugar, with which they are dusted, or more accurately totally coated, won't go everywhere on the polished floorboards of our suite. The icing sugar can be seen all over over the floor under the tables at Cafe du Monde and even in trails along the footpaths leading away from the establishment.

PS: On the way home we also saw another example of the corruption of the name New Orleans, this time as the name for one of the local taxi companies.
Nawlins Taxi Cab Company


Saturday, January 5, 2013

Saturday 5 November - Daphne Alabama to New Orleans Louisiana

Survived our night at the Best Western Daphne with our door secured only by the night lock as the door lock itself would not hold closed. Jessica also had a very uncomfortable night trying to sleep on a sofa bed that was beyond its use by date.

Drove through Mobile and then out of Alabama and into Mississippi before finally reaching our last state of Louisiana. Chuck, the GPS, navigated well and even took us just past our B & B so that we had parking! We eventually located Monrose Row when Cindy, the owner, came out on to the footpath as she had missed our phone call. Check in was scheduled for 3pm so we opted to leave all our luggage in the car and planned to head off on foot to get a glimpse of the French Quarter. Cindy provided us with a map and suggestions for an authentic place to have some lunch and took us the two heart starting flights of stairs to see our attic rooms. Needless to say the building is beautiful and the rooms fabulous and Jessica should sleep well on a modern style sofa bed tonight.

Off headed the three explorers and walked down Governor Nicholls Street to Decateur Street and then headed along towards the CBD proper. Cindy had recommended Olivier's for some authentic creole food for lunch and when we were about to give up and try somewhere else and Jessica was about to start chewing on her hand, the restaurant was spotted. In we went and perused the lunch menu - Philip and Alison had wanted to try the Gumbo and as we had decided that we would also order an entree (main) we opted for the cup size! We would have been overloaded if we had chosen the bowl size. The Gumbo was not the colour that Alison had expected - Philip didn't know what to expect - but was certainly tasty. Jessica decided that she needed something other than water to drink so was convinced to have one of the house specialities, a Hurricane. Fruit juices and dark rum. Needless to say Philip ended up drinking most of the Hurricane! Along with the soup we were served corn bread soaked with a honey butter sauce. Then along came our mains - Red Fish Fillets for Jessica and catfish jambalaya for Philip and Alison. One of the senior staff came past and asked if we needed more corn bread but we indicated that as good as it was we were fine. Well when he brought our main meals out he provided us with another round of corn bread, a side of buttered okra and a side of turnip greens. What a feast - he told us that we should enjoy and take our time as it was a lazy Saturday afternoon. We have the second round of corn bread back at the B & B to have with a cup of tea.

Walked back to Monrose Row and reversed the car up the one way street to a parking spot right in front of the door and the unloaded all our luggage and with Cindy's help carted it up the stairs to the attic. As this is our last stop we need to re-arrange all the luggage for the flight home. Cindy did offer for us to use the dining room on the ground floor as we are the only guests for the next few days but we opted for the extra aerobic exercise!

Cindy had suggested that we visit Frenchman Street this evening as it has a number of live music venues so we had a rest and then freshened up and put on some "evening clothes" and headed off on foot again. On the way Jessica was able to point out Brad Pitt's New Orleans home which is in our street! No lights on there tonight.

We walked up and down Frenchman Street listening to the music from the outside of the venues. Philip and Alison are not real jazz fans so that sufficed. We visited an artist's market and then wandered along window shopping
This colourful alligator ready for Mardi Gras caught our eyes
on our way back to the famous Cafe du Monde for cafe au laid and beignets.
Maybe as Cafe du Monde is open 24/7 the staff need to catch a rest when ever possible!
Apart from the danger of getting icing sugar spilt on our coats and dark clothes, this was a lovely way to finish of the evening and also then gave us some more energy to walk at least half of Bourbon Street where the drinking was in full swing as was the music.


Now we are all safely back at Monrose and had no worries walking the streets to get back - felt totally safe.

Friday, January 4, 2013

Friday 4 January - Monticello to Daphne, Alabama

Good night's sleep in spite of the full house at John Denham House and fortunately the other guests didn't turn up the central heating to the unbearable level that we had experienced on our first night there back on Christmas Eve. Shared the breakfast table with two other couples - a man who works in the Sheriff's Office in Tampa and his teacher wife and another couple from a town only an hour away from Monticello. The man from nearby wants to visit the Australian outback and loved the movie - "Australia". On the way out of town Philip was amused with the reaction from the young man at the gas station who asked where we were from and when Philip replied Australia was greeted by a 20 something console attendant imitating a kangaroo but he couldn't quite remember the name of the animal but did also manage to throw in a "Crikey!". He then welcomed Philip to the "durrty durrty" apparently an affectionate term for the South!

On the road then for nearly 4 hours with Alison driving and a straight run along the I-10 with only a couple of stops for comfort at roadside rest areas which are extremely well-maintained. Finally left Florida and entered Alabama and arrived at our Best Western to be told that we would not be able to check-in until 3pm as they had experienced a full house the night before and were still getting the rooms cleaned. So it was across the road in the car to a Cracker Barrel shop and restaurant where lunch was enjoyed. Alison had "chickin and dumplins", Philip had cat fish pieces coated in corn meal and fried with the largest longest ranch fires that we have ever seen and Jessica had chicken fried chicken with sides including fried apple. A wander around the store after lunch and Alison purchased a new shirt and Philip and Alison tried the double rocking chair on the front verandah.


Then it was into the main shopping centre and a visit to the Pet Market store to look at dog toys but nothing took our fancy and luckily Alison had bought a range of toys at the Winn Dixie Supermarket in Monticello yesterday so the boys will not be disappointed when we return home. Jessica had her eyes set on some clothing stores and the Build-A-Bear Shop so we circled and the two ladies in the party scored some bargains at Coldwater Creek. Now settled in at the Best Western with a load if washing through the machine and now in the dryer and the only problems we have identified are that our room door won't actually lock closed and Jessica's sofa bed is in need of some re-springing. We can cope for the one night. At least the room is large.
Another in my Evita inspired photos - "Another suitcase in another hall."

PS: And at least some of the car number plates have - "Sweet Home Alabama" on them!


Thursday, January 3, 2013

Thursday 3 January - Orlando to Monticello

Breakfast at Homewood and a challenge to the room account - the rate had been increased by $9 a night from the original internet booking so had to get the Manager to sort that out which was done by the time we checked out around 9.30am. Alison and Philip thought they had worked out the route on Google Maps so headed off with Alison driving and Chuck the GPS on. He would not have a bar of the route that Alison and Philip had planned so eventually he was allowed to take control and we retraced a few kilometres and were on to the well used I-4.

Managed to keep on track to his liking from there on and pulled into four toll plazas to pay cash tolls as the EzyPass toll token that we hired with the car does not work on Florida toll roads. The weather was overcast, at times foggy, at times rainy for the journey but all went well with just one stop at a well-maintained and clean rest area for a comfort stop and we were back in Monticello for a late lunch at Pizza Hut.

Back to John Denham House B & B and a welcome from the owner Pat and we are settled in and have enjoyed an afternoon nanna nap. Philip is now over his head cold but suffering from sinus problems. He probably needs to be taken out and shot. Alison says that this is not an option yet, as we are not home.

Not sure if the ongoing saga with Virgin has been mentioned earlier in the blog but we had been trying to get information from the airline since 9 December about whether we could pay for an upgrade to Premium Economy for the return journey to Australia. Philip ended up emailing the Virgin Executive team and finally received a definitive answer from the Manager of the Velocity Team last week. The answer "no way" due to the fact that we had used points to book the original flight and we hope that you enjoy your trip!!!! Well at least an answer did arrive and an apology that we had not been contacted by the Velocity Team. On checking emails this morning a Velocity team member had finally responded - different answer this time, still no way but the reason being that there were no available seats. To top off the matter there was also a comment that they had attempted to make contact six times to our home and mobile phone in Australia and maybe our contact details needed to be updated. The fact that all Philip's contacts and questions regarding the matter had clearly stated that we were travelling and home contact was not possible and that email should be used seemed to have escaped their attention! Another email was then sent to the Velocity Manager and elicited a short response about improvements being made and a wish for us to have a good flight back. Now we are certainly aware of how unimportant the general traveller is inspite of all the hype that airlines (especially Virgin) make about the customer experience. It would be so nice if when we checked in at LA for the big leg we were told we had been upgraded! do miracles happen? Alison hopes so.

The weather today has changed as mentioned but yesterday being 80 in Orlando makes today feel very cool. Hopefully the weather as the journey across to New Orleans is made will see warmer days before our homeward journey is made.